Why Eighty-Eight Temples?
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a sacred journey of about 1,200 kilometers around the four prefectures of Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa. Pilgrims visit eighty-eight temples following in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Through this journey, travelers purify their minds and bodies while taking time to reflect on themselves.
Walking the entire route, known as the “walking pilgrimage,” takes about forty days. Traveling by car or bus can be done in one to two weeks. There are several ways to make the pilgrimage: completing it in one continuous journey, dividing it into sections during different trips, or traveling in reverse order from the 88th temple backward.
You can start from any point, but traditionally the pilgrimage ends with a visit to Mount Koya, where Kobo Daishi rests in eternal meditation. Completing the pilgrimage is known as mangan, a symbol of spiritual fulfillment.
Origins and the Establishment of the Eighty-Eight Temples
Written records of the Shikoku Pilgrimage date back to around the 12th century, when monks and devotees made private spiritual journeys to sites associated with Kukai. At that time, the sacred temples were not yet fixed.
It was during the Edo period, when travel became popular among common people, that the eighty-eight temples were formally organized as one continuous route around the island. Stone markers and signposts were placed along the roads, inns and teahouses appeared, and a culture of hospitality known as Osettai — offering free food or shelter to pilgrims — spread across the land.
By the late 18th century, the list of eighty-eight temples had been established, forming a network that connected temples, travelers, and local communities. In this way, the Shikoku Pilgrimage became not only a spiritual journey but also a reflection of Edo-period society itself — a cultural heritage shaped by both faith and the social connections of ordinary people.
The Meaning Behind the Number Eighty-Eight
Why eighty-eight? In Buddhism, there is the concept of “eighty-eight earthly desires” that cloud the human mind. The pilgrimage symbolizes overcoming these worldly attachments — walking and praying at each temple is seen as purifying one desire at a time.
There is also a popular belief that the number eighty-eight represents the sum of three traditional yakudoshi — unlucky ages in Japan: forty-two for men, thirty-three for women, and thirteen for children. Both interpretations share a common meaning: the pilgrimage is a symbolic journey of purification, renewal, and spiritual rebirth.
No matter which story one believes, the deeper spirit remains the same — to walk, to reflect, and to free oneself from worldly attachments through the act of pilgrimage.
The Four Stages of Spiritual Training
The eighty-eight temples are divided among the four prefectures of Shikoku, each representing a stage in the Buddhist path toward enlightenment.
Tokushima – The Place of Awakening: The journey begins with new determination and prayer.
Kochi – The Place of Discipline: The long coastal roads and intense heat test the body and mind.
Ehime – The Place of Enlightenment: The mix of mountains and villages brings gentle encounters with people and nature.
Kagawa – The Place of Nirvana: The pilgrimage ends in quiet reflection at Okuboji Temple, the 88th temple and the traditional point of completion.
These stages are more than metaphor — they reflect the real emotional transformation that pilgrims experience as they move through the island. The land itself becomes a mirror of the spiritual journey, guiding the pilgrim from awakening to peace.
Numbers, Routes, and Traditions
Each temple on the pilgrimage is numbered from one to eighty-eight. The order serves as a recommended route, not a strict rule. Most people begin at Temple No. 1, Ryozenji, in Tokushima, and travel clockwise around the island.
However, some choose to go in reverse — starting from Temple No. 88, Okuboji — an act known as gyakuu-chi, believed to bring special blessings and a deeper reflection on one’s past self. The numbering system helps organize the route and serves as the basis for collecting temple stamps in the nokyocho, or pilgrimage stamp book.
This system has made the Shikoku Pilgrimage accessible to anyone, allowing people of all ages and backgrounds to participate in a centuries-old tradition.
The Living Culture of Temples, Roads, and People
What makes the Shikoku Pilgrimage unique is that it extends beyond the temples themselves. The roads connecting them, the people who offer help along the way, the inns, meals, and transportation — all come together to support the pilgrims.
The temples are centers of faith. The roads are paths of practice and encounter. And the local communities, offering rest and kindness, become another kind of temple — one built of human compassion.
Along the route, you may still find free lodgings known as zenkon-yado and experience the heartfelt hospitality of Osettai. Together, these create a living culture that transcends the boundaries of religion, tourism, and everyday life — a way of living in harmony with others.
Conclusion
More than the mystery of the number eighty-eight, the true appeal of the Shikoku Pilgrimage lies in its connection between people, nature, and faith.
The network of temples, roads, and communities continues to live on, changing shape yet maintaining its spirit for over a thousand years. With every step, new encounters are born, and even familiar paths reveal new inner landscapes.
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is an open road of prayer — one that anyone can begin, and to which anyone can always return. Knowing its origins before setting out is not just learning history; it is the first step toward walking the pilgrimage as a way of life.
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