What Does “Dōgyō Ninin” Mean?
Along the Shikoku Pilgrimage route, one phrase appears again and again: “Dōgyō Ninin,” meaning “Two Traveling Together.” These four characters, often written on a pilgrim’s white robe, staff, or hat, express the belief that every pilgrim walks side by side with Kobo Daishi (Kukai).
Even when walking alone, the Daishi is thought to be present. This awareness offers emotional strength and a sense of companionship throughout the long journey. “Dōgyō Ninin” is more than encouragement—it transforms the act of walking itself into a living prayer, a core expression of faith that has been handed down for centuries.
The Life of Kobo Daishi and the Spread of His Faith
Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai, was the Buddhist monk who introduced Shingon Esoteric Buddhism to Japan. Born in Sanuki (present-day Kagawa Prefecture), he studied in Tang China and later founded Mount Koya, establishing a spiritual center that remains active today.
His influence extended beyond religion—he contributed to education, literature, calligraphy, and civil engineering, earning deep respect as a “monk of wisdom and compassion.” Kukai’s teachings emphasized saving people in this world, transcending class and sect.
From this belief arose the idea that “the Daishi is still alive,” which lives on in the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Each temple enshrines a Daishidō hall dedicated to him, where pilgrims offer prayers and feel the presence of their invisible companion on the road.
Never Alone, Even When Walking Alone
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is both a journey and a form of ascetic practice. Pilgrims face rain, heat, fatigue, and solitude. Amid such trials, the phrase Dōgyō Ninin becomes more than faith—it becomes psychological strength.
When approaching a steep mountain path or a moment of discouragement, reciting Dōgyō Ninin helps calm the heart and steady the step. Many pilgrims describe a feeling of “being watched over by someone unseen.”
This is not merely a religious experience but a human truth: by believing in the presence of another, we find the courage to move forward again. That quiet act of trust is why Dōgyō Ninin has been cherished for more than a thousand years.
From Words to Culture: How the Phrase Took Root
The earliest written use of Dōgyō Ninin appears in pilgrimage guides from the Edo period. At that time, circling Shikoku was a dangerous undertaking through mountains and along rough coastlines.
For travelers, these four characters were a spiritual anchor; for local people, they symbolized a shared promise to support and protect the pilgrims. Eventually, the phrase began to appear on white robes, hats, name slips, and stone monuments across the island.
It became not only a mark of faith but also a sign from each community: “This is a place that welcomes pilgrims.” Even today, the carved words Dōgyō Ninin on roadside stones silently watch over those who walk by.
A Visible Prayer: Writing, Carving, Printing
The power of Dōgyō Ninin lies in its visibility. It is written in ink, carved into stone, and printed on paper—inscribed on the chest of a pilgrim’s robe, brushed on a bamboo hat, or stamped on name slips exchanged along the route.
Seeing these characters again and again along the path becomes a ritual in itself. The repetition of the words connects the body’s movement with the mind’s devotion. Through walking, writing, and seeing, faith becomes physical—a unification of spirit and step.
That is the true essence of Dōgyō Ninin.
“Two Traveling Together” in the Modern Pilgrimage
In recent years, more international pilgrims have come to Shikoku. The phrase Dōgyō Ninin now often appears on signs and pamphlets with its English translation, “Two Traveling Together.”
Like the Camino de Santiago in Spain, the Shikoku Pilgrimage shares the universal idea of walking with an unseen companion. Such translations are not merely practical—they are part of a living cultural transmission, passing down not just the words but their meaning.
Today, as faith and tourism coexist, the spirit of Dōgyō Ninin continues to breathe quietly within the modern pilgrimage.
The Spirit Within the Eighty-Eight Temples
Dōgyō Ninin symbolizes walking with Kobo Daishi, but it also serves as a practical philosophy for enduring the long road. The Shikoku Pilgrimage connects temples, paths, and people—and at its heart lies the belief in an unseen companion.
This is what transforms a simple journey into a prayer. When a pilgrim recalls those four words upon the road, the outer landscape and inner heart align in silence.
To walk the Shikoku Pilgrimage is, in truth, to walk one’s own path together with the Daishi.
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