The White Robe and the Staff
Those who walk the Shikoku Pilgrimage have a quiet, distinctive presence unlike any other travelers. The white robe sways in the wind, the sound of the pilgrim’s staff echoes softly against the ground, and the shadow of the straw hat moves slowly with the sun. The act of walking itself becomes part of the landscape of faith.
The white robe and the kongōzue (pilgrim’s staff) are not just travel gear; they are sacred tools that embody prayer, and they stand as enduring symbols of the pilgrimage culture. Let us look into their meaning, their proper use, and how they continue to be carried on today.
The Basics of Pilgrim Attire
The clothing and tools of the Shikoku pilgrim are both spiritual symbols and practical equipment for long travel. Typical items include the white robe, wagesa (simplified stole), sugegasa (straw hat), kongōzue (staff), juzu (rosary), zudabukuro (shoulder bag), and nōsatsu (name slips).
There is no obligation to wear a full uniform, but dressing properly helps prepare the mind, refines one’s posture, and makes it easier for locals to recognize and assist pilgrims. The white robe and hat represent visible faith; the staff and beads represent prayer held in the hands. Together, they form a living expression of “prayer in motion.”
The White Robe — Clothing of Purity
The white robe symbolizes purity and spiritual rebirth. In ancient times, white also referred to the color of burial robes, reflecting a pilgrim’s resolve to face the journey as if ready to be reborn.
There are sleeveless short robes and long-sleeved ones, worn singly or layered depending on the season. Many pilgrims write calligraphic phrases such as Dōgyō Ninin or sacred Sanskrit letters on the back or chest—both as a declaration of faith and a personal engraving of prayer onto fabric.
Dirt and fraying are inevitable during a long journey, but they become marks of devotion. Each time the pilgrim changes to a new robe, the heart is renewed as well.
Wagesa, Juzu, and Zudabukuro — Quiet Items Worn on the Body
The wagesa is a simplified Buddhist stole worn around the neck. It helps pilgrims compose themselves during prayer. The juzu (rosary) keeps rhythm in recitation and steadies the hands—a kind of spiritual brake.
The zudabukuro holds essentials such as name slips, offering coins, writing tools, maps, and identification. Keeping these items organized and easy to access is part of proper etiquette. Each item carries both spiritual and practical meaning, showing that faith is built upon countless small acts of mindfulness.
The Straw Hat — Shelter from Sun and Rain
The sugegasa protects the pilgrim from the sun and rain, but it also serves as a visible sign saying, “I am a pilgrim.” On its surface are often written phrases like Dōgyō Ninin or Buddhist verses such as “Meiko sangai-jō, Gokō jippō-kū, Honrai mu tōzai, Izuko ni nanboku aran” — meaning roughly, “Through delusion, the world is divided; through enlightenment, all boundaries vanish.”
Each time the pilgrim catches sight of these words, they are gently reminded of their balance between reality and faith. Today, reflective materials or small lights are often attached to the hat for safety during night walking.
The Pilgrim’s Staff — Walking with the Daishi
The kongōzue is considered a physical embodiment of Kobo Daishi himself. With each tap of the staff on the ground, the phrase Dōgyō Ninin (“Two Traveling Together”) seems to echo, reminding the walker that they are never truly alone.
It also serves a practical purpose—supporting the knees and easing the strain of long distances. The proper length is one that allows the elbow to bend slightly when the staff touches the ground. As the tip wears down, many pilgrims cherish the marks as proof of their journey.
Inside temple grounds, the staff is never struck against the ground but placed gently upright—a gesture of “letting the Daishi rest.”
The Custom of Not Touching the Staff to Bridges
There is an old custom on the Shikoku Pilgrimage: never strike the staff on a bridge. This tradition originates from the story of Jūyakabashi (“The Bridge of Ten Nights”) in Ōzu, Ehime Prefecture.
One night, during his travels, Kobo Daishi passed through this area. Unable to find lodging before dark, he lay down under the bridge and spent the night on the cold ground. The night was so bitter that it felt as long as ten nights—hence the name “The Bridge of Ten Nights.”
Believers say that the Daishi still rests beneath the bridge. Out of respect, pilgrims lift their staff slightly when crossing, so as not to strike the ground above him. This small motion embodies both reverence and gratitude toward their unseen companion.
Although safety should always come first, this gentle act continues today as a beautiful expression of faith through manners. Near the bridge stands Jūyakabashi Eitokuji, Temple No. 8 of the extra pilgrimage sites, where a statue commemorates the Daishi’s night of hardship. Visitors often pause beneath the bridge, quietly reflecting on that “one night that felt like ten.”
Modern Pilgrim Attire
Today, many pilgrims simplify traditional attire or combine it with modern outdoor gear. The form may change, but what remains essential are respect and consideration.
Within temple grounds, pilgrims maintain silence and share the space with mindfulness. This mutual respect has become a new expression of faith on today’s pilgrimage routes.
As the pilgrimage grows more international, it is common to see English name tags or emergency contacts tucked inside robes. Balancing tradition, practicality, and diversity has become, in a sense, a modern form of spiritual training.
Attire as an Expression of Attitude
The white robe and staff together represent “faith in motion,” uniting belief with daily action. The robe purifies the heart; the staff guides the path.
How one handles these tools reflects the pilgrim’s inner posture. Etiquette is not rigid law—it is a shared language of respect for others and for the sacred places visited. Dress simply for the road, move quietly within the temple.
Through these gestures, faith takes visible form—not only in appearance, but in the quiet beauty of the pilgrim’s heart.
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